Palm Springs: Desert Escape Guide

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Palm Springs: Desert Escape Guide
Photo by Elizabeth George on Unsplash

Palm Springs sits in the Coachella Valley, framed by the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains, where summer temperatures routinely top 110°F and winter days settle into the perfect 70s. This desert city two hours east of Los Angeles became famous in the 1950s and ’60s as Hollywood’s playground, and that mid-century modern aesthetic still defines the place today.

The best time to visit runs from November through April, when you can hike, swim, and explore without melting. Summer brings serious heat and lower prices—if you can handle triple digits, you’ll have pools and restaurants mostly to yourself.

Mid-Century Architecture and Design

Palm Springs has the largest concentration of preserved mid-century modern architecture in the country. Drive through the neighborhood streets south of downtown—particularly the Movie Colony, Old Las Palmas, and Vista Las Palmas areas—to see the clean lines and walls of glass that defined 1950s optimism.

The Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center, located in a former bank at 300 South Palm Canyon Drive, offers exhibits and a good overview of the movement. For a deeper dive, book a home tour during Modernism Week each February, when private residences open to the public. The event draws design enthusiasts from around the world.

Stop by the Palm Springs Visitors Center on North Palm Canyon Drive to pick up a self-guided architecture map. Many of the most famous homes—designed by architects like Richard Neutra, Albert Frey, and John Lautner—are still private residences, but you can appreciate them from the street.

The Aerial Tramway and Mountain Trails

The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway climbs 8,516 feet from the desert floor to Mountain Station in about ten minutes. The rotating cars give you 360-degree views as you rise through five different ecological zones—it’s 30 to 40 degrees cooler at the top.

At Mountain Station, you’ll find more than 50 miles of trails in Mount San Jacinto State Park. The Round Valley Loop is an easy 3.5-mile walk through pine forest. For something more ambitious, the trail to San Jacinto Peak covers 11 miles round trip with an elevation gain of over 2,000 feet—you’ll need a wilderness permit from the ranger station at the top.

In winter, the upper trails can be snowpacked. Bring layers year-round. The tram runs daily, with the first car departing at 10 a.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m. on weekends. Buy tickets online in advance during peak season.

Natural Hot Springs and Hiking

About 15 minutes north of downtown, the Indian Canyons offer easy access to desert hiking. Andreas Canyon and Palm Canyon are the most popular—Palm Canyon Trail is a moderate 3-mile loop through the largest native palm oasis in North America. You’ll pay a small entrance fee; the canyons are on Agua Caliente tribal land.

For natural hot springs, drive an hour southeast to Desert Hot Springs. The town built its reputation on mineral water, and several small spa resorts let day visitors soak for a fee. Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa has public hot mineral pools if you want something more upscale.

Tahquitz Canyon, right at the edge of Palm Springs, has a seasonal waterfall and a 2-mile loop trail. Rangers lead guided hikes twice daily, or you can explore on your own. The visitor center at the trailhead includes exhibits on Cahuilla history.

Downtown, Date Shakes, and Dining

North Palm Canyon Drive runs through the heart of downtown, lined with mid-century storefronts, galleries, and restaurants. Thursday nights bring VillageFest, a street fair with produce, crafts, and food stands that’s been running since 1991.

The Coachella Valley produces most of the dates grown in the United States. Shields Date Garden, on Highway 111 in nearby Indio, has been selling date shakes since 1924—thick, sweet, and worth the drive. Oasis Date Gardens in Thermal offers tours of their groves.

For dinner, Workshop Kitchen + Bar on South Palm Canyon Drive serves California cuisine with seasonal ingredients. Cheeky’s, open for breakfast and lunch, is famous for its bacon flight and changes the menu weekly based on what’s available from local farms. Make reservations for both, especially in high season.

El Mirasol on Indian Canyon Drive serves excellent Mexican food—try the chile verde. The original location has been around since 1975, with a second spot in Los Compadres Stadium.

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Love California — in your inbox

Iconic landmarks, lesser-known spots and the best places to visit in California.

Tours & experiences in California

Golf Cart Tour in a 6 Passenger Cart in Palm Springs California
Golf Cart Tour in a 6 Passenger Cart in Palm Springs California
From $195
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Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Admission Ticket
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Admission Ticket
From $34
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Palm Springs Self-Guided Driving Audio Tour
Palm Springs Self-Guided Driving Audio Tour
From $14
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Palm Springs Indian Canyons EBike and Hike
Palm Springs Indian Canyons EBike and Hike
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